Exploration of Jipyong Battle Place on my foot

I took the subway, bounding for Yongmun on last Thursday, 4 April, 2018, at Cheongnyang-ni station.

I did not know there was two(2) options for going Jipyong as one by the train of Kyungeui Joongang Line and the other was subway I took.

I took one(1) hour to arrive at Yongmun station and walked to locate the bus station where I could board for Jipyong-ni. I walked for fifteen minutes to arrive the small bus terminal and waited for the bus for Jipyong-ni and final Yoju city crossing the Nam-Han River after ticketing.

One country woman, sitting on the bench, informed me of the bus arrival when she heard “Is it going to Jipyong?” I asked a bus driver.

I arrived at Jipyong for about thirty minutes by bus and went to Jipyong station by walk.

I found the station building was recently remodeled in a manner of modern style.  Near the station, I visited the memorial site of French engagement where the flags were flowed along the chilly April wind and the stone monument was erected to commemorate the French contribution, a member of the 23rd Regiment Combat Team leaded by Colonel Freedman, in February 1951.

They are praised to be brave, fixing their bayonets on their rifle points, keeping silent when enemy within 20 meter in front of them. These action made General Ridgway so impressed that he ordered all his troops to maximize their bayonets as same as French soldiers in Jipyong.

At that time, all UN forces were fearful of Chinese Voluntary Army, since they had retreated for the North Korea. Chinese had not been seen at day time and attacked furiously with outnumbered human wave tactics at a rate of one to four. At night battle, Chinese bugles, drums and sirens made South Korean and UN forces fearful to loose fighting will. But French battalion demonstrated to squarely meet the Chinese with their bayonets and not to be demolished easily and psychologically.

The station was located to the west village boundary and French battalion covered it as a part of peripheral defense operation. That’s why the French commander post, Jipyong Winery preserved currently, and memorial monument is erected nearby.

I wished to explore the defense line of French soldiers and walked beyond the railroad along low hills by the rail. Ambushing along the low rolling hills was good to ambush because of its geographical advantage to observe the open space between the hills and enemy occupation mountain ridges facing with Yongmun village. I found the abandoned military barracks used for military training area by Korean unit. The importance of defense line has been acknowledged by Korean military authority, I think.

At the end of French line distinguished by the southward road for Kosu-ri and Yoju, I started to explore the Maggie hill, the toughest battle point, linking Baemi mountain and Bongme mountain. It was a mountain saddle and presently occupied with some graves and paddy fields. As I approached the hill, some dogs binding at some houses were barking loudly. A woman appeared from her house and controlled her dog to show the way of Baemi entrance.

This hill position had been called as Skulls Valley by the villagers encountered hikers living this village told. There were so many skulls in those hills in his young days and it were supposed to be Chinese killed and buried in.

It was very hard for American soldiers to dug in at the lower place than Chinese streaming down form the higher Baemi mountain. There was no geographical advantage as like French looking down the open space and continuously suffered for enemy mortars and artillery fires. However these hills were defended by the brave Maggie troopers and reserve force comprising of all staffs, artillery soldiers, Rangers and ground supports responded by USAF. The commander, Freedman, spared his reserve force during the battle and at the threats and utilized it at the critical moment.

I dropped by the Jipyong Battle Memorial Hall after the simple road lunch and looked at the flowers wrath in front of the monument describing the strategic importance of the winning of the battle against Chinese. The battle was the turning point to attack Chinese, stopping long retreats and terrifying themselves.

I moved to the old school yard, by the hall, where some memorial and commemoration stone monument of the old governmental officers performance are erected. There were bullets marks on two(2) monuments, addressing the battle fears vividly.

On back of the memorial hall, I hiked up along the mountain ridge rising to Bongmi top and met a couple of villagers treading on the path. They carried axes and dog. I fortunately got chance to talk about the battle they had known. He, asking to name him of Mongolian Uncle, explained about the mass battle points as like Chinese Death Valley near the memorial hall, Skull valley of McGGie Hills, Twin Tunnel Battle Place, Mongolian War place of Gwangtan and Kosu-ri at a distance of arrow flying.

They kindly showed me of how to going down for Jipyong station and I was hurried to meet the train departing time at 17:00 for Seoul. I walked directly cross the paddy field supposed to be protected by French unit in the battle. At 18:30, I could successfully return back home. I was a full one day exploration trip reminding me of the spirit, will and breath of the 23^rd Regiment Combat Team and their meaningful sacrifices and efforts.